Comments on: Treating rust. http://www.firebird67.com Journal and pictorial of the restoration progress and process on my 1967 Pontiac Firebird. Lots of photos and step-by-step how to advice. Mon, 26 Apr 2010 20:34:09 -0700 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.3 hourly 1 By: hiltman http://www.firebird67.com/technical-how-tos/body-work/treating-rust/comment-page-1/#comment-618 hiltman Sun, 17 May 2009 09:11:59 +0000 http://firebird67.wordpress.com/?page_id=44#comment-618 I found the metal ready locally. I haven't found the marine clean yet, but can probably use any number of degreasers. I ordered up some POR-15 Chassis Black top coat and can pick it up next week. Thanks for the information. I found the metal ready locally. I haven’t found the marine clean yet, but can probably use any number of degreasers. I ordered up some POR-15 Chassis Black top coat and can pick it up next week. Thanks for the information.

]]> By: hiltman http://www.firebird67.com/technical-how-tos/body-work/treating-rust/comment-page-1/#comment-613 hiltman Sat, 16 May 2009 05:58:08 +0000 http://firebird67.wordpress.com/?page_id=44#comment-613 I saw a cool trick on Team Camaro where they plated that channel that connects the two cross members together in the middle in order to keep all of the dirt and grime from accumulating there. I saw a cool trick on Team Camaro where they plated that channel that connects the two cross members together in the middle in order to keep all of the dirt and grime from accumulating there.

]]> By: Lloyd http://www.firebird67.com/technical-how-tos/body-work/treating-rust/comment-page-1/#comment-593 Lloyd Mon, 04 May 2009 10:30:01 +0000 http://firebird67.wordpress.com/?page_id=44#comment-593 Marine Clean is just a degreaser. The Metal Ready leaves a zinc coating for the paint to bind to and also helps prevent future rusting. After sandblasting there'll not be any grease, so degreasing is probably not neccessary, and it will also give a good (not shiny/smooth) keyed surface for the paint to adhere to, so perhaps no need either for Metal Ready. But, if you are using a wire wheel I would recommend both degreasing and the surface prep. Because if there is any grease the wire wheel will just spread it around and will also leave the surface quite smooth. Marine Clean is just a degreaser. The Metal Ready leaves a zinc coating for the paint to bind to and also helps prevent future rusting. After sandblasting there’ll not be any grease, so degreasing is probably not neccessary, and it will also give a good (not shiny/smooth) keyed surface for the paint to adhere to, so perhaps no need either for Metal Ready.
But, if you are using a wire wheel I would recommend both degreasing and the surface prep. Because if there is any grease the wire wheel will just spread it around and will also leave the surface quite smooth.

]]> By: hiltman http://www.firebird67.com/technical-how-tos/body-work/treating-rust/comment-page-1/#comment-592 hiltman Mon, 04 May 2009 10:12:54 +0000 http://firebird67.wordpress.com/?page_id=44#comment-592 I thought I read that you could just apply POR-15 after sandblasting. I read that new metal needs to be cleaned because of the oily coating that is applied. Wish me luck. I'll be doing it this weekend! Thanks for the response... John I thought I read that you could just apply POR-15 after sandblasting. I read that new metal needs to be cleaned because of the oily coating that is applied. Wish me luck. I’ll be doing it this weekend! Thanks for the response…

John

]]> By: Lloyd http://www.firebird67.com/technical-how-tos/body-work/treating-rust/comment-page-1/#comment-591 Lloyd Mon, 04 May 2009 10:03:32 +0000 http://firebird67.wordpress.com/?page_id=44#comment-591 Jeez... just realised that is very nearly a year ago now... Oh well :-). http://www.firebird67.com/images/subframe3.JPG If you look at that picture... the subframe was brushed, and the control arms were sprayed. Jeez… just realised that is very nearly a year ago now… Oh well :-) .

http://www.firebird67.com/images/subframe3.JPG
If you look at that picture… the subframe was brushed, and the control arms were sprayed.

]]> By: Lloyd http://www.firebird67.com/technical-how-tos/body-work/treating-rust/comment-page-1/#comment-590 Lloyd Mon, 04 May 2009 10:02:31 +0000 http://firebird67.wordpress.com/?page_id=44#comment-590 I did use POR-15 for the subframe. I wirewheeled it and managed to get it fairly shiny looking in a day, there are some places that you won't be able to reach so shotblasting would be better, however my shotblaster is not up to much. Besides, POR-15 (apparently) likes a little rust to bond to. Spraying will give a much nicer/smoother finish... I brushed to save on the cleaning up, and I am fairly happy with it. The base coat smooths out while drying nicely, but the top coat dosen;t and will show brush strokes. Remember do to the topcoat (if you're using one) whilst the base coat is still tacky to ensure the layers bond, otherwise (I found this out when doing some smaller items) the top coat can just peel off. <br> Read from this page: http://www.firebird67.com/2008/05/11/cleaning-subframe/ I did use POR-15 for the subframe. I wirewheeled it and managed to get it fairly shiny looking in a day, there are some places that you won’t be able to reach so shotblasting would be better, however my shotblaster is not up to much. Besides, POR-15 (apparently) likes a little rust to bond to.
Spraying will give a much nicer/smoother finish… I brushed to save on the cleaning up, and I am fairly happy with it. The base coat smooths out while drying nicely, but the top coat dosen;t and will show brush strokes. Remember do to the topcoat (if you’re using one) whilst the base coat is still tacky to ensure the layers bond, otherwise (I found this out when doing some smaller items) the top coat can just peel off.

Read from this page: http://www.firebird67.com/2008/05/11/cleaning-subframe/

]]> By: hiltman http://www.firebird67.com/technical-how-tos/body-work/treating-rust/comment-page-1/#comment-586 hiltman Mon, 04 May 2009 04:55:44 +0000 http://firebird67.wordpress.com/?page_id=44#comment-586 Hey Lloyd, I bought POR-15 awhile back. But didn't buy any Marine Clean or Metal Ready. I hope it's not too expensive. I believe you used this system for your sub-frame. I'm going to do mine next weekend. Did you sand blast your subframe, or whire wheel it. I couldn't find any info in your subframe 'how to', so I figured I would ask. Hey Lloyd,

I bought POR-15 awhile back. But didn’t buy any Marine Clean or Metal Ready. I hope it’s not too expensive. I believe you used this system for your sub-frame. I’m going to do mine next weekend. Did you sand blast your subframe, or whire wheel it. I couldn’t find any info in your subframe ‘how to’, so I figured I would ask.

]]> By: Lloyd http://www.firebird67.com/technical-how-tos/body-work/treating-rust/comment-page-1/#comment-564 Lloyd Wed, 25 Mar 2009 20:34:39 +0000 http://firebird67.wordpress.com/?page_id=44#comment-564 Hello. Mine came from NPD and were repro parts not OEM... they fit fine, with just a little persuasion needed on one side. It is a fairly straight forward job to replace them, you shouldn't have many issues in doing so. Hello. Mine came from NPD and were repro parts not OEM… they fit fine, with just a little persuasion needed on one side. It is a fairly straight forward job to replace them, you shouldn’t have many issues in doing so.

]]> By: Carlos http://www.firebird67.com/technical-how-tos/body-work/treating-rust/comment-page-1/#comment-563 Carlos Wed, 25 Mar 2009 20:02:22 +0000 http://firebird67.wordpress.com/?page_id=44#comment-563 Hello,, great work!.. I 'm looking to do the front floor pans on my 67 Firebird Convertible. Both sides have some large holes and need replacing. The driver side toe area has alot of rust , so I need to buy the front pan that covers the lower toe area. Any advise on who has the best floor pans for sale out there. I see so many on ebay, just not sure who to trust with good material and perfect fit. Again I'm just in need of the driver and passenger front areas. The rear are ok. Thank you and great pics and info. I'm not a body man, but looking at your pics, I think I can cut the rusted areas out and patch the new pans on my own.. Take care Carlos carlito121@msn.com Hello,, great work!.. I ‘m looking to do the front floor pans on my 67 Firebird Convertible. Both sides have some large holes and need replacing. The driver side toe area has alot of rust , so I need to buy the front pan that covers the lower toe area. Any advise on who has the best floor pans for sale out there. I see so many on ebay, just not sure who to trust with good material and perfect fit. Again I’m just in need of the driver and passenger front areas. The rear are ok. Thank you and great pics and info. I’m not a body man, but looking at your pics, I think I can cut the rusted areas out and patch the new pans on my own.. Take care Carlos

carlito121@msn.com

]]> By: Lloyd http://www.firebird67.com/technical-how-tos/body-work/treating-rust/comment-page-1/#comment-549 Lloyd Sun, 08 Mar 2009 19:38:39 +0000 http://firebird67.wordpress.com/?page_id=44#comment-549 Hello. Thank you for your comments. It has been a few months since I rebuilt the drum brakes but I do remember the retainer bracket you mention having an egg shaped hole. Honestly, whether this is by design or through wear I am unsure. I am certain however that the bracket would not slip off; the springs will hold it very tightly in place. Just a quick thought... is the narrowest part of the egg-shaped hole also large enough to slip off the post? If it is then concerns over the egg-shaped hole causing the bracket to be oversized and slipping off the post are moot. If not, then like I said, the springs will hold it and I would not be worried. It is worth noting that every single component of the drum brakes, including all the brackets and both shoes, is loose and has to be held in place by springs and/or hold-down pins. My brakes worked adequately (the shoes being almost completely worn out) before disassembly so I am not worried. Hope that helps. Anything else and I'll be happy to try and help. Hello. Thank you for your comments.

It has been a few months since I rebuilt the drum brakes but I do remember the retainer bracket you mention having an egg shaped hole. Honestly, whether this is by design or through wear I am unsure. I am certain however that the bracket would not slip off; the springs will hold it very tightly in place.

Just a quick thought… is the narrowest part of the egg-shaped hole also large enough to slip off the post? If it is then concerns over the egg-shaped hole causing the bracket to be oversized and slipping off the post are moot. If not, then like I said, the springs will hold it and I would not be worried. It is worth noting that every single component of the drum brakes, including all the brackets and both shoes, is loose and has to be held in place by springs and/or hold-down pins.

My brakes worked adequately (the shoes being almost completely worn out) before disassembly so I am not worried. Hope that helps.

Anything else and I’ll be happy to try and help.

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