Archive: 2008

Cavity waxing.

Tagged: Rust removal / prevention, Subframe
14th May 2008
For this I used Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50 (anti-corrosion for cavities). Only way to tell if it’s really any good is to wait a few years. It certainly applied easily and got good coverage, and is definitely water repellent. When it dries it has a rubbery flexible feeling. Subframe inside. Before and After:…
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Painting subframe (underneath).

Tagged: Rust removal / prevention, Subframe
13th May 2008
POR-15 (rust preventative base coat): The base coat is really good stuff. Goes a long way and all brush strokes smooth out when drying.   POR-15 Chassis-Coat (UV protection top coat): The top coat is not quite as good as the base. It covers about half as much, and brushes strokes are inevitable. It does have a nice finish – colour and sheen – to it though. Once the subframe…
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Painting subframe.

Tagged: Rust removal / prevention, Subframe
12th May 2008
POR-15 (rust preventative base coat): The base coat is really good stuff. Goes a long way and all brush strokes smooth out when drying.   POR-15 Chassis-Coat (UV protection top coat): The top coat is not quite as good as the base. It’ll cover about half as much, and brushes strokes are inevitable. It does have a nice finish – colour and sheen – to it though. Once the subframe…
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Cleaning subframe.

Tagged: Rust removal / prevention, Subframe
11th May 2008
To strip all the subframe parts is kinda lengthy, and I forgot to take pictures. It is pretty simple: Remove the front wheels. Remove the shocks. Split the tie-rods and unbolt the steering pump and idler arm (entire steering assembly). Remove the sway bar. Chain the coil spring to the lower control arm and split the lower ball joint. Split the upper ball joint. Unbolt upper and lower control arms.…
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Separating front subframe.

Tagged: Body, Subframe
6th May 2008
Once the engine and transmission are out, the subframe could be unbolted in four location from the body – 2 under the front seat pans and 2 directly under the firewall/bulkhead. These were very rusty so a big cheat bar on the socket wrench was used, and probably a whole can (not really…) of WD-40. The bushings are completely shot, there’s almost nothing left of them, they’ve rusted and disintegrated…
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Engine and trans out.

Tagged: Engine, Subframe, Transmission
3rd May 2008
Hoisted the engine and transmission out. Used two 1ton straps wrapped round the sump. Looks like it’s ready to slide out the slings, but it didn’t, it was fine.   Ready to be stripped and rebuilt, some time.…
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Stripped off engine components.

Tagged: Disassembly, Engine
27th April 2008
Took off the fuel pump, oil pump, carburetor, some fluid lines and more.   Before and after:   After cleaning:   Ready for the engine and transmission to be pulled out now.…
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Drive shaft and petrol tank and fuel lines removed.

Tagged: 1967 Pontiac Firebird
24th April 2008
Drive shaft gone: Fuel tank gone: Fuel filler gone:…
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Steering column and parking brake lines removed.

Tagged: 1967 Pontiac Firebird
21st April 2008
…
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Hood hinges shot blasted.

Tagged: 1967 Pontiac Firebird
16th April 2008
Shot blasted hood hinges using a protable compressor, shot hopper and a handheld shotblast gun. Used grit first of all and this is the most abrasive, strips rusts off very easily but the surface it leaves is mottled. Used glass beads as an alternative, this is less abrasive buts leaves a smooth and almost shiny surface. Best approach seems to be grit first then tart up with glass. Also oiled…
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Car started for last time.

Tagged: Engine, Ignition
12th April 2008
Car did not want to start. Gravity fed petrol through pump but to no avail. Found 2 fractured rubber lines at the carb, so temporarily taped them up. Still no different. Recharged battery, and still no change, so cleaned battery terminals and the clamps, whilst doing this noticed the negative cable has deteriorated significantly and almost fell out the clamp crimp. Repaired this cable with a spare one from the…
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